... But Itaewon's So Delicious...

For years I have avoided the district of Itaewon, the heart of expat commerce and socialization in Seoul.

Itaewon, with its vast import selection* and English speaking venders, is a natural watering hole for foreigners. The American base is right at the end of the main street, and the neighboring area, Hannam-dong, has mostly been a largely foreigner settlement. Foreigners seeking their own housing (considering that many English teachers are provided housing next to their schools) often go to these neighborhoods (Itaewon, Noksapyeong, Hannam-dong, Haebangchon aka HBC).

In the old days (not too many years ago) this area was the only place to find "big size" clothes, imported food supplies, and Western-style sports bars. Noteworthy, too, it is not just for "Westerners," but also the center of the Muslim community and other Southeast Asian immigrants. The mosque at the top of the hill is a well known landmark, and the import food stores are equally full of ingredients from the Middle East and Southeast Asia. It is understandable that this would be pretty important to expats who are looking for something from home. Fabulous.

Itaewon has become associated with this "Itaewon Freedom" concept, where misfits can find a place to fit in in Itaewon, where it is a more open minded community. This is true, based on the idea that the people who hang out there are far less judgmental than mainstream, conservative society. But when Itaewon became trendy among the rest of the public, it became a tourist destination. A place to gawk at foreigners and "odd" people, or... sometimes just a good place to corner foreigners into practicing English.

As soon as night falls, it's rowdy. Foreigners go to let loose, but alcohol usually makes people get a little too loose. Releasing all the pent up stress from their culture shock and frustrations with daily Korean life, they become the foreigners they would be at home times ten. Imagine your first time out without parental supervision as a teenager. I didn't find it attractive or charming that men from all different nationalities would stare or wink or say hay, just because I was walking on the same street. The area has been deemed by Korean and foreign men alike a place to prey on "open" and lonely women... meaning they half expect the women there at night to be especially promiscuous. The fact that many girls actually do have positive responses (hey, they're practically on vacation here), doesn't help curb the habit.

I did not go because I did not want to be seen as or associated with those kinds of partying foreigners. I knew that if I mentioned Itaewon, I would fulfill a stereotype and expectation that foreigners are those people and that I am dependent on a foreign bubble in which to thrive in Korea, that "Korea" was not a livable environment for foreigners. Out of stubbornness, I wanted to prove that I could live without it and live an independent** life like every other resident of Seoul.

I propose that there has become a misconception in the Korean community about what open means. I had a discussion with a friend about this over brunch one day. Young Koreans are these days trying to live an "open-minded life" resembling what Europeans and Americans often uphold to be important values: individual preference, acceptance of the LGBT community, interracial couples, and all sorts of lifestyles that conservative Korean culture would label "fringe" society or troublemakers.

The effort is there, and I do give kudos for that. But the whole concept is still missing. Koreans often think that what makes Americans or Westerners open minded is that we agree with or support everyone's opinion. That's simply not true. I don't agree with everyone nor would I recommend everyone's lifestyle. What makes Americans particularly "open" is that we don't mind that people have other opinions. We don't waste time worrying about what others think of certain lifestyles. It's choice. We believe in unconditional choice. We believe in equality, especially for things that people do not have choice in. Korean society still wants to judge the choices and backgrounds as trends to follow and categorize, or even rank, people based on their characteristics. As long as that happens, you can't really call it being "open minded," even if you think they're cool. LBGT isn't a trend. Having dark skin isn't a trend. Nor is it a justified reason to assume you know everything about someone. It's like a math problem: Some As are Bs. Some Bs are Cs. Therefore, some As could be Cs. But in old school Korean math, it's all or nothing. A=C.

It will take time for the mentality to change. Probably a few generations, so I'm going to be patient and just take off the wall comments with a grain of salt and avoid situations that might become uncomfortable.

In my last winter break of college, I had a part time internship in Itaewon. It gave me a few months to look around and discover that there were some pretty chic lounges, excellent bakeries and chocolatiers, and a few friendly faces. I still didn't like the stigma I felt from locals. That two-sided coin: "Oh, Itaewon's so interesting!" but at the same time thinking, "It's so dirty and old-fashioned." It's a nun-chi (눈치: reading between the lines in social environments) that most foreigners don't have enough time to pick up.

The past few years have shown a huge revival of interest from twenty and thirty something Koreans. The food has gotten much better, the classiness of the restaurants has really skyrocketed, and more authentic cuisine has cropped up all over. It's not just foreign food, it's real foreign food. Of course, this would not fit a student budget in the least. Now that I have steady income and a roof over my head, I feel like I can splurge with friends every now and then. I have a growing list of restaurants I want to go to. I just went there today to get my first custom made pair of dress shoes for work (next post teaser!). Basically, it's a foodie paradise--and at the same time, disappointingly, often one of the only place to find clothes that fit international women's body types.  Arguably, there might be other outlets, but for the average non-Korean speaker, they might as well not exist at all.

I still don't like to be in Itaewon at night. I don't like agree to meet the few foreign friends I know there. For me, it is a great place for casual lunches and sifting through the international markets, maybe even a place to browse some English books (but, eh. I shop online). I feel torn about it. I like to suggest excellent restaurants to my friends from work and school, but at the same time I feel like I'm promoting a stereotype of myself as the foreigner who naturally knows Itaewon.

But dear God, it's delicious. Here are some pictures from today. I went to The Baker's Table, a German bakery that serves a full menu of sandwiches and schnitzel and wursts. My friend from Germany gave her seal of approval, so that means it's gotta be authentic. She dies every time I show her what we consider pretzels in America, and so she brought me to some local places that are run by Germans to show me what's up.

The Baker's Table

Bakery selection. This place is very busy. Pretzels usually sell out.

Curry wurst and pan potatoes.

A real pretzel.

Directions to The Baker's Table: Leave Noksapyeong Stn. ex. 3. Cross the intersection (both times to get diagonally to the big wall at the far side) and walk away from Itaewon main street. Keep walking a few blocks. You'll have to cross a strangely askew crosswalk. It's about another block down right before the overhead crosswalk. This neighborhood has TONS of food. Pizza. Thai. Kebab. BBQ. Come hungry. Don't fill up on ice cream and churros on the way.

2014.9.28 | 지도 크게 보기     ©  NAVER Corp.

* Recently, big chain grocery stores also increasingly carrying import items, especially trending is imported beer. Costco would also be a good place to go find safe and reliable perishable food staples. And... if you know me at all, I'd say use the internet. But it's not non-Korean speaker-friendly.
** This is also where there could be room for cultural friction. We foreigners want to prove our grit by showing independence and capability. But Korea is a community based society, and friends and family help one another. Receiving help or staying around those that help you isn't as much of a weakness in the minds of a lot of Koreans, but it certainly can feel like an insult to some foreigners.

Kia Carnival: The State of Our Dads

I ran across this PR campaign a while ago. If you watch the video to the end, you'll see that it's for the Kia Carnival, a minivan type vehicle. More specifically, it's for a program that Kia launched, Carnival Academy. They call it an academy, but in Korean that could also refer to a seminar course.

Commercialism aside, the video starts off with a typical day at work for Korean men, busy working in a rather bland office environment. They get called into a conference room for a test. The men obediently begin answering survey questions about what is most important at work, how much do you agree with the following statement, etc.

Part 2 of the test asks "Please enter your child's height and weight." "What is your child's favorite pop idol?" "What was your child's favorite family vacation?"And the men are stumped. Most pass the office test, where it shows one man passing the office section with 85 points and only managing 35 points on the section about children.

This shows concerns that a majority of families are facing in Korea--balancing office life and family life. Most men come home from work well after 8 pm and are too drained to be active on the weekends. Women who are tough enough to continue their careers after having children are also expected to stay late. Obviously this has very serious implications for family life.

Even if the movement starts in a superficial and scripted advertisement, I really hope that over time the sentiment will be taken seriously by those in leadership roles so that we can restore family values in this "bbali bbali" society.

Pope Francis Visits Seoul

In honor of Pope Francis' visit to Korea this week, I'm sharing a music video, Koinonia (코이노니아). This song is a collaboration of some famous Catholic celebrities. When I posted this to my facebook, my dad was quick to notice that the cathedral where they filmed the video is the Myeongdong Cathedral. 

For those who are curious, "koinonia" is a Greek word for communion/sharing. The lyricist said, "So many people live just for themselves. If more people prayed for others, the world would be a better place to live." It's a respectable message to spread in today's increasingly egocentric society. 

Pope Francis' message to Korea for this trip is, "Rise Korea, clothe yourself in light, the Lord’s glory shines upon you."

Thoughts on the South Korean Ferry Sewol Disaster

Tessa's Note: This blog is in the process of being edited for the sake of clarity. I wish I were perfect the first time I try to express my ideas, but I need practice. For the sake of relevance of time, I wanted to start the discussion sooner rather than later, so this post did not wait on a final revision before being published.

This week I started a new exercise regimen one-on-one with a trainer. The first class was rather early in the morning, and I've been waking up early because I go to bed so early after a hard workout and a full day at work. Now that I'm not regularly swimming at the crack of dawn, I have had the opportunity to finally tune in to Seoul's TBS EFM 103.5 English language news programs in the mornings this week.

The radio station seems to have a lot of good info. I remember a long time ago, they were educating expats about how to file taxes. Most information is for practical public knowledge and explanations of the political and social atmosphere in the city, and it's a good way to get all the recent news in days before it might ever hit BBC or the New York Times (or even get translated for the local English newspapers).

As most of you may well know, South Korea has been grieving the tragedy of the sunken ferry carrying mostly high school students on an overnight school trip to Jeju Island. In the last moments of the sinking, 174 passengers and crew were rescued of the total 476 on board (according to today's news from Yonhap). As of this morning, 156 bodies have been retrieved and the missing still stand at 146.

There has been a lot of action from various sources--Samsung has sent cranes to help pull up the ferry. Japan was said to have pledged resources, and though it may be of little consolation, even North Korea sent its condolences. However, this doesn't relieve the pain of those effected, and the outpouring of sympathy from the public has been enormous.

But nearly 9 days after the shock of the accident, and after most of us have lost hope in finding survivors, there is a major concern and anger over government responsibility. A new debate has unfolded about what the government should have done and what it should do.

So far there have been the following actions highlighted in the media:

• Prosecutors have filed charges against 11 of 29 surviving crew members, including negligent murder and failure to conduct safety inspections.
• The offices and homes of many responsible for the command and ownership of the Sewol ferry and its operators have been raided, and the government has confiscated a handful of hard drives. 
• Reports have uncovered the shady history of the owner of the ferry operation owner including embezzlement and tax fraud. The owner seems to be a businessman, whom I would say is nearly a business mogul who was one of the lucky people to ride the wave of wealth from South Korea's industry boom in the 1980s.
• Conflicting statements by rescuers and politicians are being thrown around about how the ship will be handled. Some want to keep it still until the last body is recovered (keep in mind, the divers have not yet been able to access all parts of the ship and have little visibility or control over currents, making that idea sentimental, but highly challenging). However, TBS radio has said that tomorrow will be the day that the workers will now be working on a recovery project, and it is no longer considered a search and rescue, as there is at this point nearly no chance of any survivors remaining. Note: All of those rescued were rescued within the first two hours after the mayday was sent.

As one could imagine, lots of fingers are being pointed and an extreme amount of blame put on the government. Though this sentiment is certainly not unfounded, my personal opinion is that this mentality is in the long run unproductive and unsustainable. There will be no end to this retroactive blame. 

The radio this morning had a guest on the show that put into words the thoughts that I could not until this point fully organize on my own. This applies for nearly all political systems, and I would not go so far to say that the problem we faced in the lacking regulation that led to the Sewol disaster is unique to Korea.

THE GOVERNMENT'S ROLE

In broad terms, it is the definition of government to protect its people. Laws and regulations are created to prevent damage and the government provides means to punish those who do not comply. The extent of clarity of these regulations and the executive power's enforcement of them are less than perfect. Go through any legal matter dealing with the police or legal courts, and you will quickly find that the world does not operate with the omnipotence of TV shows like CSI and Law & Order. 

The truth is, enforcement is mostly retroactive. Punishments are placed after someone does something wrong. It is hard, and in most cases impossible, for the government to be able to prevent any wrongdoing before it happens. Legally, I mean. (For example, I had to wait nearly two months after my paychecks started to go missing for me to file in full with the Ministry of Labor, even though I knew the money wouldn't be coming in after the first month. Legally, the payday had to pass--my employer had to do something wrong first, otherwise he is still innocent on paper).

In today's day and age, with the uproar of the NSA's projects and data collection, and even selective monitoring, proactive routes taken by the government are often faced with large opposition from the public. The potential for abuse and lack of transparency causes suspicion. So that leaves people to voluntarily report themselves (for example, US taxes, or in Korea, the TV tax) and then any misreporting runs the risk of getting caught in a random audit perhaps years down the line. This is the same thing that is happening with the owner of the Sewol operations. He had some baked books, and now that something has gone horribly wrong, the government (or perhaps, the media) is frantically flipping through files.

Now... I'm not saying that the government now needs to become something from Minority Report. Rather, I want to offer a different concept:

The government is needed as a safety net for when the system fails. But "better safe than sorry" should be the first thing people think, not "the government will handle it." We need to place a more balanced responsibility on the community to be able to prevent and react to accidents. Papers in a filing cabinet do not save lives. People do.

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

It would be nice if the government could repel down from the sky to an isolated sinking ferry or to a terrorized subway, but that's just unrealistic. In Seoul, the government has put a lot of funding and investment in public safety. The subways are all equipped with platform doors that open only when a train is aligned at the station. They have even made bridges more psychologically comforting to prevent jumpers.

Sure, there's always more that we will say should be done. But as long as it isn't realized, the danger remains prevalent in our day to day lives. I will give the following comparisons:

Murder is illegal. There are court proceedings for those who violate that law. But there is no way for government to prevent it. There is a way to discourage, and there are sometimes ways to quickly respond. However, if there is no way to prevent murder, then why isn't homicide an epidemic? It's a social taboo. Society says that it's bad, and we personally feel a responsibility not to kill the person next to us, no matter how much you want to. I don't not kill the person who shoved me on the subway because I don't want to face the courts. I don't kill them because I feel it's wrong. I'm sure most people would agree here. 

Let's move to a little more practical and less extreme case. 

Why do you feel uncomfortable when you see someone throw their trash on the ground? Are you angry that they aren't being slapped with the legally mandated fine that was enacted in your state law? Or are you upset that they're contributing to an unclean environment?

Most people would realize, yes, I feel uncomfortable because I know littering is bad. This is a societal norm. People are educated about the effects of human waste on the environment, educated about how to prevent waste, and then, in turn, practice and encourage the same behavior. 

In South Korea, we have laws. We have fines. However, there is mostly a lack of concern for implementing the behaviors and habits that these laws uphold. Copyright is defended by the courts, but university professors let copyright infringement slip everywhere. They copy textbooks to make makeshift course readers and don't think once about actually paying royalties. Students copy things they find on the internet, and most kids don't even know how to make a citation. It's painful to watch... for me, anyway.

The point is, if people don't understand the implications of their actions, or if they are not educated about how to react to a dangerous situation, there is no amount of power that the government has to guarantee anyone's safety. The first responders are in fact the people present at ground zero, not professionals, not rescue teams.

CONCLUSION

The government (and the community) needs to work on instilling a mentality of social responsibility. What I'm thinking of works on two levels. 

1. Public safety: Things like having regular fire drills for students. Enforcing straight lines and following the right side of the stair well. These things are often taken for granted, but if not taught, lead to a very big debacle when the time comes for order and security. I have been working with kids here for a long time. We have not once had a fire drill. We (the faculty) have not been told what to do in the case of a fire. I can use my knowledge from my education in the States, but I cannot assume everyone else has the same ideas. My last school's fire extinguishers were not even fully pressurized.

2. Regulation: The shady practices of this businessman who owns the Sewol operations is not a surprising case. Bad practices often go unchecked and no one lifts an eyebrow until something goes wrong. There is no sense of guilt when you bake your books or stretch the truth in inspections because there is no pressure from others to be completely honest Why? In the end it doesn't directly effect me and if I say something, I'll be a labeled rat and cause a big uproar. This is a situation that is highly undesirable in Asian culture. **I have had a lot of feedback from my Korean friends about this part of the essay. They say that they have an unspoken burden when it comes to things like this, and they feel unable to change wrongdoing because they fear being troublemakers. I will be working on addressing it in another post later.**

My post has run long, but I hope that it sheds some light on the environment of this disaster. This disaster was the result of a long line of neglect across many sectors. The fault doesn't lie 100% on lack of regulation on the government's part, but also lack of foresight and preventative interest from society at large. I think starting with wholeheartedly upholding safety and transparency is the foundation for any progress in preventative policy. 

Actions, not words. 

New Beginnings on the Horizon

In a brief moment of mental clarity coinciding with free time on this Monday morning, I finally have a chance to give you guys an update.

Sorry for the long delay. As you hardworking folks know, time seems to become rarer and rarer. To put an additional challenge in, there have been interesting turns of events in the ever-exciting world of me.

First notable event: I finally got my back pay from my old hakwon! Yay! It took 9 months for my old employer to scrape together the funds (plus or minus some honesty on his part) and pay the teachers. Now that the case is officially settled, I feel like I can disclose the negotiations and speculations of the case without compromising my own returns.

I know that I received 100% of what was calculated by the Board of Labor, no interest or lawyer fee reimbursement, because I just wanted him to hurry up and pay up. Adding on additional fees could have been adding risk to him deciding to just declare bankruptcy and merely pay a fine where he would then have his first criminal record (basically the same as having something put on your permanent record in high school. A slap on the wrist as far as legal ramifications go). So to play it safe, but stand up for my basic rights, I agreed to just end it after he pays me what he owes me. Given, too, that I recognize the desperation of his situation (again, plus or minus some honesty) with having an infant son to care for, he must be strapped for cash in some manner. I decided to be a little forgiving. But I wanted my money, dang it.

I got it. Paid off my credit card from when I went to the States (plane ticket and Black Friday shopping), plus my Costco expenses. Costco in Korea only takes cash or Samsung credit cards. However, they don't clearly explain that American Express works as Samsung in Korea. Yay! It's always so hard to leave with only what you went for, therefore just as hard to bring just enough cash. So that's why I always use my credit card at Costco whenever I manage to make a trip.

And make a trip this weekend I did! I went for Greek yogurt, but they were all out. Sad. So instead I got some "Denmark Plain Yogurt." I checked the sugar. If there's like... none, then you know it's good to eat! at 5g per serving compared to the next "plain" yogurt at 11g, I figured it would get a seal of approval from my inner dietician. As sour as it tastes by itself, add a little natural (not quite so processed and sugar added) jam or preserves, maybe some muesli (granola without the sugar), and it's actually not that regrettable.

Anyway. As predicted I left with a lot more than yogurt. Preserves, salmon wrap wheels, jerky, bacon bits, and a pack of bagels. Bagels are probably a no-no, but who cares, they're delicious.

I'm planning on making my own meals for lunch (the only time I'm supposed to eat normal people food). My plan: sandwich, yogurt, and a fruit of some kind. Breakfast and dinner are essentially a choice of 2 of the following: boiled egg, small sweet potato, or banana. Mix and match any way you want! and cry. Just cry. (Stand up comedy reference). Here.



Anyway. Gotta start this diet thing again. Gotta lose weight to save my knee. OH BY THE WAY. (today's transitions work so well...)

---

I signed up for another round of PT (Personal Training). It's a 3 month plan. I went to a training studio in the neighborhood that I had an eye on since I went looking for gyms. Training studios do not have a gym package where you can come on your own, you have to be taking classes to use the facilities, so I nixed it early on. 30 classes for about 1,500 bucks. You come use the gym whenever you want, but meet with an instructor twice a week. Last time I did this, I lost 19 kilos, about 35 pounds or so. Since then (it's been 9 months), I gained half of it back. No doubt largely due to stress from the lawsuit and also from hurting my knee.

The trainer I was matched with has a bit of experience in physical rehabilitation (as in when athletes hurt themselves, these are the trainers that get them back into competitive shape). He assessed my body imbalances (one side stronger than the other, for example, in my shoulders. That can lead to further injury if your body overcompensates.) They did a really good job doing a physical. Wednesday is the first class. Today was my first power walking exercise at that gym. (Treadmill, why hello, long time no see.) Heart rate was well over 160...

This should be good.

In addition, I finally gave in to lifting up my seat to the recommended height where the leg becomes fully extended.

Little did I know that I can't actually ride a bike. I had always taken off by pushing one foot on the ground while seated and then while coasting starting to pedal. (Yay teaching myself how to ride a bike... the wrong way). So now it's really scary to try and push off by just pedaling. It takes me about 10 minutes to get a successful start. And God save the person that makes me stop before I want to. It begins another 10 minute session trying to start. Most of the time, all of the sweating happens when I am focusing so hard on my feet and not tipping over before getting the pedals moving enough to keep my bulk centered. After that it's smooth sailing. I'll get the hang of it eventually...

There's actually a bit more to the life of Tessa, but that's all I have time to recap for today. I have lots of topics to talk about coming up. And I might post a more detailed account of my experience filing a lawsuit in Korea. For a preview, I can say that I am now looking for a job starting in September using a two pronged attack. One line safely pursuing hakwons and the other in the high risky hopes of finding an office job outside of the English education field.

I wish good luck to myself in all of this. haha.

Comments? Requests? Yes, please!